Jaguar I-PaceX590 · 2018-2024 · electric, twin motor EV400, 90 kWh
jagaux.com

Jaguar I-Pace Key Fob Not Working

The I-Pace fob talks to the car all the time, so its CR2032 cell runs down in a couple of years or less, and the first sign is keyless start failing while the buttons still work. Hold the fob against the recess under the steering column to start, then fit a fresh cell of a reputable make. If both fobs die at once, the car's side is the suspect.

5likely causes

How bad is it · Safe to drive

Safe to drive — but carry a spare cell

A weak fob gets worse quickly, especially in the cold. Once it's flat you're relying on the second fob or the app.

Jagaux Doctor · typical causes and checks — not a diagnosis of any one car jagaux.com/doctor/cases/i-pace-x590/key-fob-not-working/

Get a diagnosis for your I-Pace

This page covers the usual causes. The Doctor works on your car: describe what it does and what has already been replaced, and it narrows these down to your symptoms, model year and fuse layout — which check to do first, and what not to buy yet.

This page lists the usual causes — it is not a diagnosis of your car.

Which one applies to yours depends on your symptoms, your model year and what has already been done to it.

01

Likely causes, most common first

Read the check cost before the odds: a free check that rules a cause out beats a likely guess that costs money.

1

A weak fob battery

The fob transmits continuously, so its cell drains faster than in most keys; roughly 18 months to a couple of years. A weak cell still works the lock buttons but fails keyless detection.

How to tell

Smart key not recognised, please reposition. Starting only with the fob held against the recess under the steering column. Worse after the key spends a cold night in the car; the car may even report itself as stolen.

How to check

Try the second fob: if it works, the car is fine. A multimeter on the cell: for example, 2.8 V against 3.2 V for a new one.

The fix

A new CR2032. The back cover comes off easily. Carry a spare cell.

very likely a CR2032 coin cell
2

The new cell doesn't suit the fob

Some makes of CR2032 don't work in this fob, and a stale cell or a poor contact can leave it dead even after a change.

How to tell

The fob worked badly before the change and not at all after it, while the second fob is fine.

How to check

Make sure the old cell didn't go back in. Handle the new one with clean hands or gloves, clean the contacts and press the contact tab down slightly.

The fix

Swapping a Maxell cell for a Varta CR2032 made the fob work at once. Use a fresh cell from a reputable source.

plausible another coin cell
3

The fobs need re-authorising

Fobs can drop their pairing with the car, and after the Activity Key has been used the regular fob may not wake up again by itself.

How to tell

Both fobs stop at once, or the fob stops after using the Activity Key.

How to check

With your foot on the brake, hold the fob flat to the underside of the steering column and press Start.

Worth checking

Worth trying: with the fobs inside the car, lock and unlock with the Activity Key to re-authorise them.

plausible free
4

Keyless entry fails on one fob or one door

Keyless entry uses a separate low-frequency coil in the fob, which can fail, for example after a drop. If one door alone won't respond to any fob, the door's own module is the other candidate.

How to tell

One fob still locks, unlocks by button and starts the car, but won't open the door by the handle or the tailgate by the kick sensor.

How to check

Fresh cell, both fobs, nothing in the pocket shielding it, fob within about a metre of the door.

Worth checking

Worth knowing: if a fresh cell changes nothing, the fob itself needs replacing.

plausible a fob or a door module
5

Both fobs dead, app still works: a car-side glitch

When neither fob works but the phone app locks and unlocks, the receiving side in the car may have hung.

How to tell

No button on either fob does anything; the app works normally.

How to check

Rule out both cells first.

The fix

Not settled: removing the RF-related fuses under the rear seat brought the fobs back on one car. Have the car checked if it recurs.

unlikely free
02

The order to check them in

The point of the order is money: each step either rules a cause out or makes the next one worth doing. Green is free, amber costs a little, red is the one to arrive at last.

1

Try the second fob

If it works, the car is fine and the first fob needs a cell.

free
2

Start from the steering-column recess

Hold the fob against the recess under the steering column, press the brake and press Start.

free
3

Fit a fresh CR2032

A reputable make, fresh, handled with clean hands. Check the contact tab touches firmly.

cheap
4

Don't leave the key in the car

A key left in the car overnight keeps the car awake and drains both; a cold cell near the end of its life also fails.

free
5

Re-authorise

After using the Activity Key, lock and unlock with it while the fobs are inside.

free
6

Dealer

If both fobs fail with good cells, or one fob's keyless entry stays dead, have the car's modules checked and updated.

dealer diagnosis
04

What it usually isn't

Don't spend money here first:

The car's 12 V battery, when the second fob opens and starts the car.
The fob as a whole, when the lock buttons work but keyless start doesn't — that is usually just the cell.

None of these sound like your I-Pace?

Describe what yours does and what has already been replaced. The Doctor works through the same cases against your symptoms and model year, and tells you which check to do first.

05

On jagaux.com

Ratings, fuse numbers and torque figures vary by model year and market. Read the legend on your own car before pulling anything, and use the figures in the manual for your car, not the ones in a video.

06

More Jaguar I-Pace faults

The same fault on other Jaguars:

key-fob-not-working

Check your VIN: exactly which car you have and which bulletins apply to it.

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