Jaguar X-TypeX400 · 2001-2009 · 2.0, 2.5 and 3.0 V6 petrol; 2.0 and 2.2 diesel
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Jaguar X-Type Check Engine Light

On the V6 the light most often means an oxygen sensor or a split PCV hose — both cheap. I'd read the codes with a reader that knows Jaguar codes, ignore P1111, and check hoses and sensor wiring before buying parts. On the diesels the warning is the glow-plug light flashing instead.

6likely causes

How bad is it · Safe to drive

Steady light, car driving normally — get the codes read this week

Most causes here are sensors and hoses that cost little and do no harm for a few days. A hesitation under load, a dead throttle or the temperature gauge at full is different: book it in now.

Jagaux Doctor · typical causes and checks — not a diagnosis of any one car jagaux.com/doctor/cases/x-type/check-engine-light/

Get a diagnosis for your X-Type

This page covers the usual causes. The Doctor works on your car: describe what it does and what has already been replaced, and it narrows these down to your symptoms, model year and fuse layout — which check to do first, and what not to buy yet.

This page lists the usual causes — it is not a diagnosis of your car.

Which one applies to yours depends on your symptoms, your model year and what has already been done to it.

01

Likely causes, most common first

Read the check cost before the odds: a free check that rules a cause out beats a likely guess that costs money.

1

A failed oxygen sensor

The pre-cat linear sensors drift out of range with age rather than dying outright, and a heater circuit can fail on its own. The car usually drives exactly as before.

How to tell

P1646 names bank 1, P1647 bank 2; P0037, P0161 or P0164 point at a heater circuit. No change in how it drives.

How to check

Bank 1 is the right-hand bank seen from the gearbox end, bank 2 the left. Check the connectors on the firewall and the shared O2 sensor supply fuse first — a bad contact sets the same code.

The fix

Replace the sensor the code names, for example a Jaguar-boxed one for about 165 USD. The rear-bank sensor by the firewall needs a slotted lambda socket or a crow-foot, or the inlet manifold off.

likely a sensor, about 165 USD
2

A split PCV or breather hose

The hose from the PCV system to the intake, or the front cam cover breather to the manifold, splits and lets in unmetered air. The mixture runs lean and the engine computer switches cruise off.

How to tell

P0171 and P0174, an amber warning with Cruise Not Available, a rough idle, an engine that stops pulling above a certain rpm.

How to check

Look along the PCV and breather hoses for a slit, and listen round the two intake tuning valve O-rings and the brake booster hose with the engine idling. A lean code can also be the inlet manifold gasket — rule it out before buying a sensor. The tuning valve O-rings are cheap enough to renew rather than test, and a live fuel-trim reading on a scanner shows whether the leak has gone.

The fix

Replace the split hose. The light can take 5 or 6 cold starts to go out by itself, so don't chase it once the leak is fixed. When it was the manifold gaskets rather than a hose, new gaskets cure the hesitation and rough idle as well as the light.

likely a hose, a few pounds
3

The fuel pump driver module

The module that drives the in-tank pump can fail while the pump itself is fine, and fuel pressure sags exactly when the engine needs the most fuel.

How to tell

A sharp hesitation under load — for example as the gearbox shifts into 5th — and code 2635, low fuel pump pressure. Fine at high revs and motorway speed.

How to check

If the light returns under the same load after being cleared, the fuel side is real, not a glitch. Rule out the other fuel causes before spending on the pump.

The fix

Fit a replacement fuel pump driver module first; the pump comes next only if the hesitation stays.

plausible a module, before a pump
4

The fuel level senders in the tank

The tank carries two level senders. When one loses its signal, the engine computer can't run its fuel-vapour checks and lights the lamp, while the engine itself runs exactly as before.

How to tell

A steady light at low mileage with no change in how it drives, and nothing found at the sensors and hoses above.

How to check

Have the code read before anything is ordered: the senders are worth suspecting only when it points at the fuel level input. If the light comes back soon after the repair, have the wiring to the senders looked at too.

The fix

Replacing the senders the code points to; on some cars the whole sending unit is renewed.

unlikely two senders and the labour to reach them
5

A wheel speed sensor or cracked ABS ring

The slotted ABS ring shrunk onto the outer CV joint cracks and the wheel speed reading goes erratic. Cruise and ABS both lean on that signal, so an engine light with Cruise Not Available can start at a wheel.

How to tell

C1145, C1155, C1165 or C1175 — one per corner — or Cruise Not Available with no ABS warning at all. Straight after a wheel bearing job is a strong hint. The engine light can also come on together with the ABS light from nothing worse than a dirty wheel sensor.

How to check

Look at the ABS ring on each outer CV joint for a crack, and the sensor plug and wire. After a bearing replacement, check it was fitted with the sensor side facing the sensor — backwards, the wheel reads as stationary.

Worth checking

Worth trying before a driveshaft: an outer CV joint kit with a new ring, for example about £90 in parts and £50-60 labour. A backwards bearing simply goes back in the right way round.

plausible a CV joint kit, about £90 plus labour
6

The throttle body

The throttle is drive-by-wire: the position sensor and servo motor are inside the throttle body, the sender is on the pedal. When either fails, the engine computer takes over the throttle.

How to tell

A red circle with (!), sometimes the engine light too, the idle climbs and the throttle stops responding. A minute with the engine off clears it until next time.

How to check

Read the codes to tell the pedal sender from the throttle body. The sensor isn't sold separately, so the whole throttle body is the smallest part.

Worth checking

Worth trying a rebuilt or exchange throttle body, for example about 400 USD against about 1200 USD new; quote the casting number when ordering.

plausible exchange unit, about 400 USD
02

The order to check them in

The point of the order is money: each step either rules a cause out or makes the next one worth doing. Green is free, amber costs a little, red is the one to arrive at last.

1

Read the codes with a reader that knows Jaguar

The X-Type has no service light, so this light always means a stored fault. Some Jaguar-only codes don't show on a basic reader — use one that reads them, or have a Jaguar specialist read it. At key-on the light should go out after about five seconds; one that stays lit is a stored fault.

free
2

Set aside P1111 and P1000

P1111 means every self-test has completed since the codes were cleared — not a fault. P1000 means they haven't finished yet. Work only from the codes above them.

free
3

After recent work, check what was touched

After a wash, give it about three normal drive cycles. After a new stereo, check nothing was spliced into the airbag wiring. On a new car, look for a small plug left loose under the engine cover. A light that comes back only on the same steep hill points at a wire breaking under strain — including the lamp's own wire.

free
4

Look along the PCV and breather hoses

Lean codes, cruise dropping out or a rough idle all start here. A split hose costs a few pounds.

cheap
5

Check wiring and the fuse before an O2 sensor

If the code names a sensor, check its connector on the firewall and the sensor supply fuse first. Then replace only the sensor the code names.

cheap
6

Cruise Not Available too, check the ABS rings

Look at each outer CV joint for a cracked ring, and at the wheel sensor plugs. Any recent bearing job goes first. With no engine light and only Cruise Not Available, look at the brake light switch above the pedal first: it can drop out of its seat, and a gentle push and quarter turn reseats it.

cheap
7

After the repair, let the light go out

Disconnecting the battery doesn't clear the code, but it does lose the windows' one-touch close — hold the switch about 2 seconds after the window shuts to reset it. Either clear the codes with a reader or allow 5 or 6 cold starts. Before an emissions test, clear them and complete the drive cycle.

free
04

What it usually isn't

Don't spend money here first:

P1111 — it means all self-tests passed, not a fault.
New catalytic converters for P0420 or P0430 — pre-cat sensors first, then post-cat, then the cats; lean running alone can set P0430.
An EGR valve on the V6 petrol for P0404 — the petrol engines have no EGR system; only the diesels do.
A cam sensor for P0340 straight after a lean-code repair — they rarely fail; do five cold starts first.
A fuel filter for lean codes — it won’t close a leak.

If none of this finds it:

If none of this finds it and P0116 comes with a full-scale temperature gauge after a long motorway run while the engine isn't actually hot: a new sensor and thermostat haven't been enough, and this one is still open.
If none of this finds it on a 2.0 or 2.2 diesel: the fault shows as the glow-plug light flashing on the move, and a failed EGR valve is one known answer.
05

Codes seen with this fault

None of these sound like your X-Type?

Describe what yours does and what has already been replaced. The Doctor works through the same cases against your symptoms and model year, and tells you which check to do first.

06

On jagaux.com

Ratings, fuse numbers and torque figures vary by model year and market. Read the legend on your own car before pulling anything, and use the figures in the manual for your car, not the ones in a video.

07

More Jaguar X-Type faults

check-engine-light

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