Jaguar S-TypeX200 / X202 / X204 / X206 · 2002-2008 · All engines on cars with the electric parking brake (2003 model year on); fuse numbers quoted are for 2007–2008 cars
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Jaguar S-Type Parking Brake Fault

On an S-Type with the electric parking brake, a Parkbrake Fault message is most often low battery voltage, not a broken brake. The module gives up when cranking drags a tired battery down to about 10 V, even if the engine starts. I'd test and charge the battery first, then reset and recalibrate the module, and only then look at cables, calipers and the actuator.

6likely causes

How bad is it · Garage, carefully

Don't drive on a dragging brake; if it won't release, the car stays put

A brake that stays partly on overheats the rear discs. If it is locked on, the car can't move until it is reset or released by hand, and the gearbox may refuse to leave Park as well.

Jagaux Doctor · typical causes and checks — not a diagnosis of any one car jagaux.com/doctor/cases/s-type/parking-brake-fault/

Get a diagnosis for your S-Type

This page covers the usual causes. The Doctor works on your car: describe what it does and what has already been replaced, and it narrows these down to your symptoms, model year and fuse layout — which check to do first, and what not to buy yet.

This page lists the usual causes — it is not a diagnosis of your car.

Which one applies to yours depends on your symptoms, your model year and what has already been done to it.

01

Likely causes, most common first

Read the check cost before the odds: a free check that rules a cause out beats a likely guess that costs money.

1

Weak battery: the module drops out on low voltage

The park brake module needs a healthy supply to run its motor and talk to the other modules. Cranking can pull a tired battery to about 10 V, and there the module logs a fault and may refuse to release. A lost-communication code such as U0128 at that moment is a symptom of the low voltage, not a network fault.

How to tell

The message comes up on a cold morning or after the car has stood for a while, sometimes with ABS, DSC or gearbox warnings alongside. It may vanish after a long drive and return. The speedometer may drop to zero and the CATS or engine lamp join in; everything clears on a restart and comes back later in the same trip.

How to check

Measure the battery after a night's rest: anything under about 12.6 V wants charging, and a new battery straight off the shelf may not be full either. Watch the voltage while the engine cranks. Check the charging voltage too: roughly 14.5 V just after starting, settling towards 13 V. An alternator that holds 15 V or more slowly kills the battery, and the message returns even after a new one. Clean and tighten the heavy battery cable ends and the earth straps in the engine bay; a few tenths of a volt lost there matter.

The fix

Charge the battery properly, or replace it if it won't hold the charge; the message normally goes with it. As a stop-gap, run the engine a couple of minutes at about 2000 rpm, switch off until every lamp is dark, and restart: the extra charge can be enough for the brake to release. A battery that has stood flat for months is usually finished; fit a new one charged fully off the car, and keep a car that stands on a maintenance charger.

likely a full charge, or a new battery
2

The module needs a reset and a calibration cycle

Once the module has latched a fault, after a voltage dip, a battery change, a jump start or work on the rear brakes, it often stays latched with good voltage back. It needs a reset and then a calibration run before it trusts the brake again.

How to tell

The battery is healthy now but the message stays, or the display reads NOT CALIBRATED or APPLY FOOT AND PARK BRAKE. It often appears straight after a rear pad change.

How to check

Ignition off, battery disconnected for about 30 seconds, reconnect and start. If the car then prompts you, hold the footbrake, apply the parking brake with its switch, release it, and lift off the pedal.

The fix

The full routine is Jaguar bulletin S206-04: after the reconnect, pump the footbrake firmly five times until NOT CALIBRATED or APPLY FOOT AND PARK BRAKE shows, then with light pedal pressure apply and release the brake on the switch, lift off, and cycle the brake five more times; the message and lamp should clear. If a battery disconnect won't do it, reset the module itself: car off, unplug the larger connector at the module on the right of the boot, switch on, plug it back. Expect the radio to ask for its code. After rear brake work, feel the rear wheels after a drive for drag. If the cables were unclipped to move a stuck car, reconnect them first, then leave the battery off for an hour and run the full calibration rather than just applying the brake when prompted, or a rear brake can drag.

likely free
3

Early module software that sets the brake on low voltage

Early park brake module software defaults the brake to applied once the supply sags to about 10.2 V. Later software tolerates a drop to about 9 V, so the same battery stops causing trouble.

How to tell

The fault latches every time the battery dips a little, for example after two or three weeks unused, and the brake stays on even after recharging.

How to check

Have a specialist with factory diagnostics read the park brake module and its software level; a generic code reader can't see this module at all.

The fix

A software update to the park brake module. Ask for it before buying parts when the battery tests good and the fault keeps returning after every voltage dip.

plausible a module software update with Jaguar diagnostics
4

A broken cable or a caliper lever that sticks

The actuator pulls two cables to levers on the rear calipers. A broken cable, a split boot that lets water in, or a lever that won't return to rest gives the module a position it doesn't expect, and it flags a fault. Water in a cable boot can freeze and hold the brake on.

How to tell

An alarm with a flashing brake lamp, a ratcheting click at the end of release, or a brake that sticks after snow, slush or a hard frost.

How to check

With the rear wheels off, look at each cable end and its rubber boot at the caliper and move the lever by hand: it should spring fully back. Under the car, the cables should not hang slack.

The fix

Repair or replace the broken cable. Free and lubricate a sticking lever, then disconnect the battery to reset the module. Replace split boots before winter.

plausible a cable, or freeing the lever
5

A short in the parking brake supply in the boot

The parking brake's 30 A feed runs in the right-hand harness in the boot. If a retaining clip lets go, the harness rests on the floor pan, heat or rubbing wears through the insulation, and the feed shorts to earth, sometimes taking a neighbouring circuit with it.

How to tell

The parking brake is dead and F35 blows again as soon as it's replaced, possibly with another boot-area fuse blowing too, often after the car has been very hot.

How to check

With F35 out, measure from its load side to earth: a few ohms means a short. Then follow the harness along the right of the boot floor for a loose clip and melted or chafed insulation.

The fix

Repair the damaged wires and clip the harness back up off the floor; the fuses then hold.

unlikely a wiring repair
6

Actuator motor or the module itself

The actuator motor sits low under the car, and water getting into it is its usual end: it may still run when fed directly yet fail under load. The module can fail too, and sometimes the actuator and module have to be replaced together.

How to tell

The actuator grinds as it works, the message survives a good battery and a correct calibration, or diagnostics report an actuator position fault. On some cars the selector also locks in Park.

How to check

Read the module with Jaguar diagnostics (IDS or SDD) or a scanner that can talk to the park brake; a basic OBD reader only sees the engine. Codes such as C1799, C1A41 and C1D14 with an actuator position fault point here. The switch has two release contacts, and one that no longer closes looks like a module that won't let go. If the motor applies and releases when fed 12 V directly on its two wires, motor and cables are sound and the module or its wiring is left.

Worth checking

Worth trying a replacement actuator with its cables first; a new module needs no programming. Reaching the motor is a long job on a lift. If a new actuator alone doesn't clear it, the module is next, for example about 860 GBP for both together.

plausible an actuator with cables, roughly 130 to 530 GBP depending on source and labour; more with a module
02

The order to check them in

The point of the order is money: each step either rules a cause out or makes the next one worth doing. Green is free, amber costs a little, red is the one to arrive at last.

1

Battery under load

Measure after the car has stood overnight and again while cranking. Charge it fully before anything else.

free with a multimeter
2

Reset

Battery off for about 30 seconds, reconnect, start, and follow any prompt on the display. Have the radio code ready.

free
3

Calibration routine

Run the full sequence from bulletin S206-04 described above, especially after rear pad work or when the display reads NOT CALIBRATED.

free
4

Fuses

On 2007–2008 cars the luggage compartment fuse box has F35, 30 A, and F52, 5 A, for the electric parkbrake, and F20, 10 A, in the passenger compartment box carries its logic supply. Earlier cars differ, so check the list for your year.

free
5

Cables, boots and caliper levers

Wheels off: cable ends, boots and lever return at both rear calipers.

free to look
6

Read the park brake module

Factory diagnostics or a scanner that reaches the park brake module, for codes, actuator position and software level.

a diagnostic session
7

If it is locked on and the car must move

Unplugging the module behind the trim on the right of the boot can release it. With the rear wheels off, the clips joining each cable to its caliper lever can be popped. The motor can be fed directly on the red/white wire (disengage, module pin CA265-14) and green/white (engage, CA265-7), but the release polarity isn't documented, so leave that to someone handy with wiring. Cutting the cables is the last resort: the caliper lever isn't sold on its own, so it can mean new calipers at about 280 GBP a side.

free to dear
8

Stop it setting itself in storage

Hold the parking brake switch down while you select Park and switch off, and the brake won't auto-apply. Keep a car that stands for weeks on a maintenance charger.

free
03

The fuses named above — where they sit

The highlighted position is the one the procedure talks about. Pulling a fuse is a stop-gap, never a repair: check what the circuit feeds before you pull it.

Luggage Compartment Fuse Box · Luggage compartment · as fitted 2006 (VIN N52048 →)
F35 30 A — Electric parkbrake.Electric parkbrake
F52 5 A — Electric parkbrake.Electric parkbrake

Circuit descriptions from the Jaguar handbook, 2007 edition, p. 9, 10. Drawing by jagaux.com from the factory electrical guide. Fuse layouts change between model years — read the legend on the lid of your own box before pulling anything.

Passenger Compartment Fuse Box · Passenger compartment · as fitted 2005–2006
F20 10 A — Logic supply to instrument cluster, climate control system, front electronic module, rear electronic module, electric parkbrake.Logic supply to instrument cluster, climate control, front and rear electronic modules, electric parkbrake

Circuit descriptions from the Jaguar handbook, 2007 edition, p. 7, 8. Drawing by jagaux.com from the factory electrical guide. Fuse layouts change between model years — read the legend on the lid of your own box before pulling anything.

04

What it usually isn't

Don't spend money here first:

A new actuator or module before the battery has been tested under load and charged.
Worn rear pads on their own: packing the gap doesn't change the message.
A clean result from a basic OBD reader, which can't see the park brake module.

If none of this finds it:

If none of this finds it: a fault that keeps returning with a good battery and a new actuator points to the wiring between switch, module and motor; an open circuit or a failed switch contact are the usual findings on factory diagnostics.

None of these sound like your S-Type?

Describe what yours does and what has already been replaced. The Doctor works through the same cases against your symptoms and model year, and tells you which check to do first.

05

On jagaux.com

Ratings, fuse numbers and torque figures vary by model year and market. Read the legend on your own car before pulling anything, and use the figures in the manual for your car, not the ones in a video.

06

More Jaguar S-Type faults

parking-brake-fault

Check your VIN: exactly which car you have and which bulletins apply to it.

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