Jaguar XK8 / XKRX100 · 1996-2006 · 4.0 and 4.2 V8, XK8 and XKR
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Jaguar XK8 ABS and Traction Control Light

On these cars the ABS and traction lights usually come on together, and the usual culprits are cracked solder joints inside the ABS module (code C1095) or a broken lead to a front wheel sensor. I'd charge the battery and read the code from the ABS module before buying a single part.

8likely causes

How bad is it · Safe to drive

Safe to drive gently — the brakes still work

The ordinary brakes are unaffected, but ABS and traction control are switched off until the fault clears. Leave more room in the wet, and if Low Brake Fluid comes up too, check the reservoir before you go.

Jagaux Doctor · typical causes and checks — not a diagnosis of any one car jagaux.com/doctor/cases/xk-x100/abs-light/

Get a diagnosis for your XK8 / XKR

This page covers the usual causes. The Doctor works on your car: describe what it does and what has already been replaced, and it narrows these down to your symptoms, model year and fuse layout — which check to do first, and what not to buy yet.

This page lists the usual causes — it is not a diagnosis of your car.

Which one applies to yours depends on your symptoms, your model year and what has already been done to it.

01

Likely causes, most common first

Read the check cost before the odds: a free check that rules a cause out beats a likely guess that costs money.

1

Cracked solder joints inside the ABS control module

The control module clips onto the side of the pump. The joints on the pump motor power pins crack with heat, and the module flags the pump motor circuit even though the motor is fine.

How to tell

Code C1095 (or P1095 on some readers); lights that come and go, often worse in warm weather, then stay on for good.

How to check

Read the code from the ABS module first. Resoldering cures C1095 and nothing else — a sensor or harness code needs the next sections. With the light on solid, unplug the two-pin plug at the pump and measure across the motor side: below 4 ohms the motor is sound and the module is the fault; well above, suspect the pump. The module can come off without opening the brake lines — washer filler neck out, pump bracket unbolted from the inner wing, both plugs off, four small bolts out, then pull the bottom of the pump towards the engine and slide the module off — though some only came free with the four pipes undone.

The fix

Open the case, reflow the pump motor power joints and reseal it with black RTV — or post the module to a repair service, for example about $55. It slides off the pump without opening the brake lines. When you refit it, check that no connector pin has bent or doubled back. Resoldering is not always permanent, and one mail-order repair failed twice before a new module cured it. On a 1997 car the module is a one-year-only part, with and without traction control; match the Jaguar number, not the one moulded on the housing. If the pipes were opened, draw the old fluid out of the reservoir first, then bleed as normal.

likely a resolder or a mail-in repair
2

A broken front sensor link harness

A short lead joins each front wheel sensor to the body harness. It flexes with the wishbone and steering until a wire fractures inside the insulation, so the circuit opens only at one wheel angle.

How to tell

A sensor code such as C1155 (front left); the light comes on in a turn, at full lock or over bumps, clears on a restart, and returns. Messages that clear on a restart and come back with the steering on lock; the engine may lift its idle with them, which can feel like the car pushing on.

How to check

Unplug the lead at both ends and measure the sensor circuit while someone turns the wheel lock to lock — for example a steady 1,150 ohms that jumps to infinity near one lock. A bench continuity test can pass a broken lead; swapping the two front sensors and seeing the fault stay put points the same way.

The fix

Fit a new link harness — new, not a used one that has flexed for years. A sensor is rarely the faulty part.

likely a lead, tens of dollars
3

A failed module that upsets the whole CAN bus

The ABS module talks to the instrument pack and the other modules. When it fails badly it floods the network, and warnings appear that have nothing to do with brakes.

How to tell

ABS light with Low Brake Fluid that isn't low, the red BRAKE light, a dead speedometer or trip computer, ASC Not Available, sometimes TRANSMISSION FAULT and RESTRICTED PERFORMANCE; network codes such as P1642.

How to check

Plug a known-good module in before you buy anything else — a new gearbox control module doesn't change it.

The fix

Fit a module with the right Jaguar part number: up to VIN 018107, JLM20129 (5 pipe, no traction control) or JLM20130 (6 pipe, with it); later cars, for example JLM20555 (5 pipe) or JLM21323 (6 pipe). The number on the cover is no guide. A used one can be as little as about $85; a wrong unit shows WRONG PART FITTED.

plausible a used module, or about $1,600–2,000 new
4

A weak or undersized battery

The system check runs while you crank. If the voltage dips, the module reads a sensor as open and puts up the failure message, though nothing is broken.

How to tell

Stability Control Fail or Trac not available right at start-up, after the car has stood or after a cheaper, smaller battery was fitted. A rough guide: if the message shows only while cranking and goes within a few seconds, it is the battery; if it stays until the engine is switched off, look at the module or a sensor. Typical after the car has stood for some days.

How to check

Charge the battery fully and turn the key to on, waiting until the System Check message clears before you crank.

The fix

If the message never comes back with that pause, the battery is the cause — fit one of the size the car was built with.

likely a charge, or a battery
5

Dirty wheel sensors and connectors

The sensors sit in brake dust and road grime. A dirty tip or a corroded plug gives a weak, patchy signal.

How to tell

ABS and TRAC lights now and then, cleared by switching off and on, with the brakes working normally. A DSC message without the ABS lamp after driving through deep water, gone after a restart, points at water at a sensor or plug.

How to check

Take each sensor out, clean it with brake cleaner and clean its earth; spray contact cleaner into each connector and work it in and out a few times. On a 1997 car a healthy sensor reads about 1,100 ohms (±60); some data sheets quote double that, which is wrong for that year. A worn wheel bearing can also let the ring rub the sensor at low speed.

The fix

Clean all four, not just the one the code names — the dirtiest one may be another wheel.

plausible a can of brake cleaner
6

A loose rear driveshaft nut or a damaged tone ring

The sensor reads a toothed ring that turns with the hub. If the ring slips or loses a tooth, the wheel seems to spin and traction control cuts power.

How to tell

Amber light and ASC on every take-off, power cut up to about 12 mph; or C1141 on the front left after hub or knuckle work.

How to check

Check the nut on the end of each rear driveshaft for slack; look over the tone ring for a missing or damaged tooth.

The fix

Tighten the driveshaft nut — the fault can clear within a few miles. A damaged ring is a mechanical repair, not a sensor.

unlikely tightening a nut
7

Mismatched tyres or pressures across an axle

Traction control compares wheel speeds closely. A new tyre beside a worn one, or one soft tyre, looks like wheelspin.

How to tell

ASC or Trac not available right after a puncture, a wheel change or new tyres on one side only.

How to check

Set all four pressures and compare tread depth on each axle.

Worth checking

Worth trying first after any tyre work: matched tyres on an axle and correct pressures. Disconnecting the battery won't reset it.

plausible an air line
8

The throttle body, when traction control failure comes with lost power

Traction control works through the electronic throttle. A failing throttle position sensor drops the engine into fail-safe and the traction warning comes up with it.

How to tell

Traction control failure together with a fail-safe message and a sudden loss of power at speed — not just an ABS light.

How to check

Ask a Jaguar dealer whether service action S498 (or S514) was done: it checks the sensor date code, bad codes 10T5 to 11T25. A WDS or IDS download can show a throttle failure even with no stored codes.

Worth checking

Worth trying if S498 was never done: the updated throttle body LNE 1560AE K, or a reconfiguration by the dealer.

plausible about $250–1,200
02

The order to check them in

The point of the order is money: each step either rules a cause out or makes the next one worth doing. Green is free, amber costs a little, red is the one to arrive at last.

1

Charge the battery and wait for System Check

Charge it fully, then leave the key on until the System Check message clears before cranking. If the warning only ever appears at start-up, this may be all it is.

free
2

Read the code from the ABS module

A cheap OBD reader shows only P codes; you need one that reads chassis C codes over CAN, or Jaguar WDS or IDS. After a repair the ABS light can stay on until about 12 mph.

a scan, or a cheap CAN reader
3

Note when it comes on

In a turn, at full lock or over bumps points at a front link harness; at start-up at the battery; on take-off after tyre work at the tyres or a driveshaft nut; with lost power at the throttle body.

free
4

Check tyres, then clean the sensors and plugs

Set the pressures and match the tyres on each axle. Then clean all four sensors and their connectors.

brake and contact cleaner
5

Test the front link harnesses lock to lock

Measure each front sensor circuit with the lead unplugged at both ends while the wheel is turned from lock to lock. Swap the front sensors left to right before buying one.

a multimeter, then a lead
6

C1095 — resolder or repair the module

Reflow the pump motor power joints yourself or post the module to a repair service. Straighten any bent pin before you push the connector home.

about $55 upwards
7

Only now replace the module

Match the Jaguar part number and pipe count, not the cover number. After fitting, scan, note and clear the codes — unplugging the module sets codes of its own.

$85 used to $2,000 new
04

What it usually isn't

Don't spend money here first:

The pump motor, on C1095 — it is the solder on the module board, not the motor.
A new wheel sensor, when swapping the two fronts leaves the fault on the same side — that's the lead.
The gearbox control module, when Low Brake Fluid, a dead speedometer and ASC Not Available arrive together.
Disconnecting the battery to reset it — the warning comes back if the cause is still there.

If none of this finds it:

If none of this finds it: check the brake light switch — it is a dual switch, and an open circuit in one half upsets more than the brake lights.
05

Codes seen with this fault

None of these sound like your XK8 / XKR?

Describe what yours does and what has already been replaced. The Doctor works through the same cases against your symptoms and model year, and tells you which check to do first.

06

On jagaux.com

Ratings, fuse numbers and torque figures vary by model year and market. Read the legend on your own car before pulling anything, and use the figures in the manual for your car, not the ones in a video.

07

More Jaguar XK8 / XKR faults

abs-light

Check your VIN: exactly which car you have and which bulletins apply to it.

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