Jaguar F-TypeX152 · 2013-2025 · petrol
jagaux.com

Jaguar F-Type Battery Drain, Battery Replacement

On the F-Type a battery that keeps going flat is very often not the battery: something plugged into the OBD port, or a scan session that was never closed, keeps the car from going to sleep. The tell is the red light in the hazard switch staying on long after you lock. Clear that before you pay for another battery — and when you do replace it, charge the new AGM fully first.

5likely causes

How bad is it · Safe to drive

Drivable, but it may not start next time

A car that can't go to sleep empties even a new battery in days. A weak battery also sets false transmission faults that keep it in Park.

Jagaux Doctor · typical causes and checks — not a diagnosis of any one car jagaux.com/doctor/cases/f-type-x152/battery-drain/

Get a diagnosis for your F-Type

This page covers the usual causes. The Doctor works on your car: describe what it does and what has already been replaced, and it narrows these down to your symptoms, model year and fuse layout — which check to do first, and what not to buy yet.

This page lists the usual causes — it is not a diagnosis of your car.

Which one applies to yours depends on your symptoms, your model year and what has already been done to it.

01

Likely causes, most common first

Read the check cost before the odds: a free check that rules a cause out beats a likely guess that costs money.

1

Something in the OBD port keeps the car awake

If a scan tool is pulled out without ending its session, or a dongle lives in the port, the car's networks never go to sleep and drain the battery.

How to tell

The small red light in the hazard switch stays on — normally it goes out about 10–15 minutes after switching off — and the yellow door-lock switch lights stay lit more than a minute after locking. It often starts after an emissions test, a code read or an insurance tracker.

How to check

Lock the car and watch those lights. Unplug anything in the OBD port.

The fix

Remove the dongle, or disconnect the battery negative for a minute or so to reset the networks; a proper scan tool session closed with 'exit' does the same. Reset the windows afterwards.

likely free
2

A dead main battery

A battery that has been flattened repeatedly or has started to seep stops holding a charge, and no jump will crank the engine.

How to tell

Low battery warning, then totally dead; jump leads and a lithium pack wake the electronics but it won't turn over.

How to check

Have the battery tested off the car. Don't keep drag-starting it.

The fix

A new battery of the correct cold-cranking rating — about 650 A, not a small unit. Registering it with a diagnostic tool is recommended on these cars.

likely a battery
3

Flat fob batteries, not the car battery

With both fob batteries flat, pressing start does nothing at all, and that looks exactly like a dead car battery.

How to tell

Nothing happens on start, no error on the dash, the main battery is fine and the spare fob doesn't help.

How to check

Measure the car battery. If it's good, the fobs come next.

The fix

New batteries in both fobs.

plausible a coin cell
4

Short trips and a new AGM that was never fully charged

The F-Type's charging is modest, and short runs leave the AGM chronically low. A new battery that sat part-charged on the shelf may never recover in the car.

How to tell

The warning is back two weeks after a new battery, fine after a long run, back after a short one.

How to check

Charge it fully on an AGM-capable charger at 5–10 A with a percentage readout — a 3 A charge can stall on a depleted AGM.

Worth checking

A float charger whenever the car isn't driven nearly every day; a plain trickle charger isn't the same thing.

plausible a smart charger
5

Low auxiliary battery on early two-battery cars

Cars up to about MY2015 carry a large main battery and a small stop/start battery. When either is low, stop/start quits and warnings follow.

How to tell

Intermittent Low Battery message that long drives don't clear, with stop/start not working.

How to check

Test the small battery on its own.

The fix

A new auxiliary battery has been quoted at around $500 at a dealer.

unlikely a small battery
02

The order to check them in

The point of the order is money: each step either rules a cause out or makes the next one worth doing. Green is free, amber costs a little, red is the one to arrive at last.

1

Watch the hazard switch after locking

Red light still on after 15 minutes: the car hasn't gone to sleep. Lock it twice, wait for the beep.

free
2

Empty the OBD port

Insurance trackers, trip loggers and gauges out. After any scan, make sure the session was closed, or disconnect the battery negative briefly.

free
3

Charge from the under-bonnet points

The batteries are in the boot. Charge from the jump terminals under the bonnet, which reach both batteries on two-battery cars; negative to the chassis so the battery monitor in the earth lead isn't bypassed. Not through the OBD port or the 12 V socket.

a smart charger
4

Keep the fob away from the car

A fob left inside or nearby keeps the car searching and wakes other modules.

free
5

Locked out with a flat battery

The key blade in the fob opens the driver's door through the slot under the handle, then the bonnet. Connect a charged battery to the charge points and press the boot release within about 5 seconds; there's also an emergency pull handle low on the rear trim inside.

free
6

Replacing the battery

Fit the correct AGM, fully charged before it goes in. Afterwards re-index the power windows. If the warning persists on a car that does sleep, have the drive belt and alternator checked before buying another battery.

a battery
04

What it usually isn't

Don't spend money here first:

The battery, when the hazard switch light stays on after locking — it's being kept awake.
Dealer software updates for Transmission Fault in Park after a quick restart — an OBD gadget or a weak battery causes it.
A dashcam, on its own — removing it hasn't stopped the warnings.

If none of this finds it:

If none of this finds it: a faulty quiescent relay module in the luggage compartment fuse box, logged as B1412-96, has caused a drain that only an auto electrician found.

None of these sound like your F-Type?

Describe what yours does and what has already been replaced. The Doctor works through the same cases against your symptoms and model year, and tells you which check to do first.

05

On jagaux.com

Ratings, fuse numbers and torque figures vary by model year and market. Read the legend on your own car before pulling anything, and use the figures in the manual for your car, not the ones in a video.

06

More Jaguar F-Type faults

The same fault on other Jaguars:

battery-drain

Check your VIN: exactly which car you have and which bulletins apply to it.

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